Like the croque-monsieur, the quiche Lorraine has a worldwide reputation as a good little dish. french. However, it can also represent the worst and the best of French cuisine…
“It’s one of the most requested comfort foods in the US and Canada. Yes, but quiche was born in Lorraine in ancient times» we read in the book Lorraine for Dummies (First Editions).
Which comes from ancient times? Claudine Brécourt-Villars, in her etymological dictionary Table words, Oral words (Editions de la Table Ronde), writes that a Alsatian adaptation the kitchenfrom German kuchen “cake”, It was approved in 1807 and formalized by the Littré Dictionary in 1869..
So have we, explains Philippe Galmiche, a child of Lorraine and co-author of Recipes in Lorraine. “Traces of the word quiche in the menu of Charles III, Duke of Lorraine At the end of the 16th century.
To confirm this, the author looked at old works and interviewed “old hands”. “The term Lorraine dates back to the 20th century, but quiche is a dish that has been cooked since the Middle Ages. “We found recipes in a book from 1373 that are very similar to quiche but without lardon.”
Let’s look at the “real” composition of this famous man. First, the basics: what kind of dough to use? Broken or crusty? Or else? Specialists in Lorraine cuisine are official. Philippe Galmiche states:
“In the Middle Ages, we used bread dough and cooked in a men’s communal oven. But the real quiche Lorraine, as it has been called for more than a century, is made from shortcrust pastry.
Therefore, the dough must be broken. Flour, oil, salt, a little water, that’s it.
It was simple until then, but the side dish is also called for “device” in the language of cooks and “Miguen” Where “migain” More controversial in Lorraine…
Custard, eggs, smoked bacon (not industrial bacon mostly, but good big chunks chopped up)… Good. But should you add CHEESE? The self-proclaimed Facebook group Syndicat National de Défense et de Promotion de l’Authentique Quiche Lorraine (not very often) swears to the great gods that Lorraine with cheese is an unthinkable reprobate (not to mention asparagus or asparagus). tuna of course).
Richard Sourgnes, cultural journalist and co-author of Républicain Lorrain Lorraine for Dummies, has also read many Lorraine cookbooks. He really has a lot going for him “controversies and options” : “Real quiche Lorraine has no onions in particular! And no grated cheese.
Andree, blogger Amélie Table Lorrainelearned to make quiche “by direct transmission from the past” (a cordon-bleu father and mother who worked in the great Lorraine houses and observed the cooks) and “Books about our Lorraine traditions”. He confirms on his website:
“A true Lorraine man should be served “chevelotte”, that is, creamy and warm, above all without cheese.
To confuse matters, Lorraine-born chef Michel Roth explains that she still puts cheese on the man: “Because it’s better.” Damn it! But he also notes that the “real” traditional recipe is made without cheese. wow
Richard Sourgnes highlights a notable detail: “don’t over salt the migen, the pork pieces are already salty enough”.
Good. So let’s get to the actual recipe.
- 200 g of flour
- 100 g of butter
- 1 pinch of salt
- 4 eggs
- 20 g of heavy cream
- 200 g of smoked pork
- Pepper and nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Put flour, salt and oil cut into pieces in a bowl. Blend with your fingertips. Then add some water and knead to get a homogeneous dough ball. Well, you can also buy ready-made dough, but it will obviously be less good …
Roll out the dough on a floured work surface. Then gently set it in a pie dish. Spread the smoked pork cut into small pieces (or pork chops) on top of the dough.
Prepare the migheni: beat eggs and cream. Add pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Pour this mixture over the dough. Bake in the oven for about thirty minutes.
So here’s the “real” traditional recipe, but Philippe Galmiche is pissed off:
“Each region has its own recipe. There are variations. Mom added bits of ham to the bacon!
And as Richard Sourgnes points out, let’s not forget that “Quish is not the only specialty of Lorraine! Also macarons from Nancy, madeleines from Commerce, pate from Lorraine…”. Or a comforting “poor man’s meal” made with Lorraine broth, especially Morteau sausages (not far away!), smoked sausage, cabbage and white beans.